Peru, Day 14, Part II: Cindiana Jones

Machu Picchu deserves two full days of pictures and anecdotes. I went skinny on the anecdotes on Monday because, really, the pictures say it all. But today I’ll introduce you to…Cindiana Jones! That’s what I felt like exploring the Inca sanctuary/citadel that was once considered the “Lost City of the Incas.” (Today, other less-accessible sites are more likely to claim the title). We had a full day at Machu Picchu, and we intended to make the most of it. Like I mentioned in a previous post, we had dreams of arriving at Machu Picchu early enough to make it into one of the two groups (200 people each at 7 a.m. and 10 a.m.) to climb Huayna Pichhu, the mountain in the background of the most famous of Machu Picchu photos (like mine—see back to this post). (Well, I guess I can’t claim my pictures are famous, but the view is!) We spoke to our guide about it the night before (which was torrential-downpourish). He pretty much talked us out of it, in that it became very evident very quickly that he did not want to meet us at 4 a.m. and get a taxi or whatever to the gates to wait in line and claim our spots to climb Huayna Picchu. He told us that the “sunrise” that everyone always wants to see at Machu Picchu didn’t occur until 7 a.m. anyway. The sun rose long before 7 a.m., but not in the specific area to which he referred. Oh, well, it was cloudy anyway. But not rainy. We couldn’t figure out why the GAP representative (the tour company we used) who met us in Lima before we flew to Cuzco told us to let our guide know we wanted to climb the mountain and he would make it happen told us that—and then he didn’t. Initially, we weren’t very impressed with him because of that. He made up for it by providing us with an excellent tour of Machu Picchu. And considering how exhausted I was (not being in the best health at this point) after eight hours of climbing all over the terraces, I can’t imagine how worn out I would have become climbing Huayna Picchu. But a part of me will always be a little disappointed that our guide did not present the opportunity to us, especially after we asked.

Yes, I’m whining. I couldn’t climb Huayna Picchu, so I snapped my zoom lens onto my camera and shot this close-up instead:

Yes, that could have been me huffing and puffing my way up the mountain. But it wasn't. Instead, I made do with other explorations.

Moi in the quarry. Machu Picchu wasn't finished when the Spanish conquistadors showed up, so these huge boulders are still waiting to get carved into more amazing structures.
There are llamas all over Machu Picchu. If you have llamas, you don't need lawnmowers. The llamas ARE the lawnmowers.
Our guide told us there were plenty of places we could hike to at Machu Picchu instead of Huayna Picchu. One hike was to the reconstruction of the Inca Bridge. That's what Pte. Inca means. "Inca Bridge."
I slapped on my zoom lens again so I could take close-ups. I took this picture on the trail to the Inca Bridge. You can see the reconstructed wooden bridge built off a sheer cliff face. I swear it was like over 1000 feet down if you fell. And I'm afraid of heights! Before our guide left us to mosey around Machu Picchu on our own, he assured me that the path to the Inca Bridge lookout point had "walls." Uh huh. Um, yeah.

If you google Inca Bridge, you’ll find that there are two types of such structures, one being a rope bridge and the other, as shown above, being a trunk bridge. This bridge was another route into Machu Picchu. Why not just continue the path, you ask? Why leave a gap for a bridge? Because, if you have a trunk (as in tree trunks) bridge, you can easily destroy it. Comes in handy when your enemies are chasing you.

Before we could walk the path to the Inca Bridge look-out (there was a wimpy wood gate preventing you from going any further. IOW, no one actually gets to walk on the bridge anymore), we had to sign a guestbook of sorts. Why do you think that is? We were assured that “tourists never fall off the cliff.” Yet you need to sign the book before you continue on (unless the guy at the desk isn’t there; then you might not realize you need to sign the book). You sign when you enter the path and you sign when you successfully emerge again. If you don’t “sign out,” what does that mean? Are you camping on the narrow path? Have you Cindiana-Jonesed your way across the bridge? Or have you taken a tumble down a 1900-foot cliff? (I just googled the height). I’ll let YOU decide. 

Yeah, that wall really extends all the way to the look-out point for the Inca Bridge! Um, not. We reached a very scary portion of the path (for the height-impaired, at any rate.) There I was, paralyzed by fear while the dh went forth without me. The path narrows right after the point where he took this picture. I swear, it couldn't have been more than eighteen inches wide. With no wall! Although there was a cable of sorts hooked into the curved rock that you could hang onto to get around the corner.

So there I stood while other people passed me by. Moments passed. Moments and minutes and more moments passed. Finally, M.L. returned. “Cindy, you just gotta see this!” Something to that effect emerged from his mouth. Lucky for him, I had already decided that I had to conquer my fear. I finally conquered my fear of roller coasters that flip you upside-down while chaperoning Youngest Son’s band trip to Disneyland years ago. I could do this! So when M.L. returned, I agreed. I would do it. But no way could I have done it without his help.

He took my daypack from me, wearing his on his back and mine on his front. Then he went ahead of me and held my right hand with his left while I gripped the rope-cable thingy with my left hand and stared at the cliff the rope-cable thingy was stuck into with my left eye. My right eye was closed, because there was zero wall at that point and if I had ANY chance of seeing how far up I was, I knew I’d get vertigo and destroy myself.

But I made it! Cindiana Jones!

Evidence that I made it. Rosy-cheeked evidence, LOL. The red cheeks are from physical exertion and sheer fear! I always get very red cheeks from exercise, and M.L. and I had been hiking around for a fair while.

Someone else took the above picture. No way was I attempting self-portraiture with only that little fence to protect us from falling onto/entering the rest of the path to the bridge.

Can you see how skinny the path is beyond the look-out point? Those Incas were crazy!

A close-up of the reconstructed bridge. I'm pretty sure M.L. would have tried it if he were allowed. He's crazy that way. I'm not!

On the way back, M.L. still carried both daypacks and went in front of me again. This time he held onto my left hand while I gripped the rope-cable thingy with my right. My LEFT eye was closed (the eye closest to the drop-off cliff) while my right eye was firmly glued to the rock the rope-cable thingy was sunk into.

While climbing around the less frequently visited parts of the ruins, M.L. discovered this amazing animal. He'd never seen anything like it. I wasn't with him when he found it, but he insisted I had to go back with him. We kept approaching this strange creature, part rabbit, part squirrel, getting closer and closer while M.L. took pictures. Another tourist, an American, was as enthralled as we were. He took tons of pictures, too. Later, we discovered the animal isn't a rarity, after all. It's a chinchilla!

 

On our way out of Machu Picchu for the day, M.L. "encouraged" me to pet a llama. By this point, we'd walked around the ruins completely at least twice, leaving the gates to eat lunch and visit the bathroom (you had to pay for toilet paper), and then entering again. We fell asleep that night utterly exhausted.

Out of everywhere we went in Peru, Machu Picchu is the one spot I would consider visiting again. Not because I didn’t enjoy the other places, like Nasca and Huancayo and Lake Titicaca, but because it’s a lot easier to get to than the 3 others. Well, I could be convinced to take the train to Huancayo again. However, other train rides occur in other parts of South America, like the Devil’s Nose in Ecuador, so I probably wouldn’t duplicate the train to Huancayo again. The only thing that would bother me about returning to Machu Picchu is that I don’t know if seeing the ruins a second time would have the same effect as the first. But if we were traveling with friends and they insisted we make that one stop again with them, I could be convinced. It was that beautiful and surreal.

I loved it!

By Cindy

I'm irritated because my posts won't publish.

11 comments

  1. Love that chinchilla picture. It’s a rare beast for me too. 🙂 We also had a llama encounter. We were going down a few stone stairs at the same time two llamas skittishly wanted to go up. They appeared to be in a hurry (so much grass to eat and only so much time, I guess) so we stepped aside.

    Hey, WTG, Cindiana Jones. I’m proud of you for overcoming your fear and tackling the Inca Bridge. It looks amazing. I’m sorry we missed that part. BTW, we also had to sign in and sign out for the climb up Huayna Picchu. At the time I thought it might be a good record check in case anyone took a wrong step at the top, but I believe it’s to make sure no one camps out there overnight. Thanks for another fabulous post. 🙂

  2. Thanks, Gail. I don’t think anyone could camp on the trail to the Inca Bridge. It’s too narrow!

    When we took the train to Huancayo, they took every passenger’s picture. I don’t think they were worried about us camping on the train, if you know what I mean. The pictures/videos would be handy in case of a crash, though.

  3. Too true. And such a cheery thought. 🙂 They didn’t take pictures of us, or if they did I didn’t notice. But we went before the train rails were washed away. Did they put on a show for the passengers during your train trip – a fellow in makeup waving a small llama as they told a story to music? I quite enjoyed it. After that they had a fashion show and I now have a lovely alpaca vest from that time. 🙂

  4. Oh, they didn’t take pictures of us on the train to Agaus Calientes. That’s a slow train! It was the 12 hour train trip into the mountains outside Lima where we had our videos taken. Every single passenger.

    We didn’t get any shows for the passengers to AC! Maybe because tourism season hadn’t started yet. High season is June and July. We had a very nice fellow named Alex feed us, though.

  5. It was very cool. If you click Peru 2010 in my sidebar (under categories), that’ll take you to the Archives for all my Peru posts. Keep clicking Older Posts until you get to the ones about the train. Or try searching Huancayo. That might bring them up.

  6. Just had to LOL because it took me a while to realize that ML & Steve were the same person. SO – I was all “Hm. She’s travelling with two men. Wow. That’s kind of …. brave…. to put that out here like that.”

    🙂

    Oh & the empty nest post is closed to comments but I wanted to say that my dh is a geologist & I was his girlfriend way back when he did his field school thing. And then later it was field work. And then I said: get a REAL job, dude! JK. Sort of …. 🙂

  7. LOL, hornblower. “My Liege” is my husband’s blog nickname. You know, because his last name is King and I’m supposed to walk three steps behind him, (but somehow I’m always in front). When I’m writing the Peru posts, I forget to use M.L. or My Liege. I’m considering dropping it completely. What writer doesn’t want to publicize that they’re married to Steven King? 😉

    My dh is a forester by training. The field school classes my son has to take for geology are similar to the forestry field schools. I did forestry field work for one week to help out a forester at the first company he worked for. I hated every minute of it. You either like field work or you don’t. Compasses, etc.? Not for me.

    Sorry the empty nest post is closed to comments. They’re set up to close after 2 weeks, because of all the spam the ‘bots send around.

    Thanks for commenting!

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